Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto & Nara
(I initially wrote this as a series of recommendations that I sent to a friend who was traveling in April 2025, hence the way its written. As I thought it might be useful for other people, I put all those recommendations in this post instead so that it could be easily shared)
Here are a few recommendations on Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto and Nara as well as Japan in general. For Tokyo these are based on multiple trips (2009/2010, 2015, 2018 and 2024), for Nara on a 2015 visit, for Kyoto on visits in 2009 and 2015 and for Osaka in 2024. All pictures/videos are our own.
When proposing walking routes, I've tried to keep them manageable and relatively short.
Tokyo
So, the first recommendation on walks is actually three, but they are in the same spirit. You can do all or choose one depending on time. They are relatively far apart from each other, but nothing that the super-efficient public transport in Tokyo can't deal with.
One of the things that I love about Japan and Tokyo in particular is how much contrast there is. How you can go from a place of sensory overload, walk a few blocks and arrive at the most peaceful shrine. How it can be incredibly modern and high-tech but at the same time be deeply rooted in traditions and customs that are centuries old and remain pretty much unchanged.
First walk - Shibuya, Yoyogi Park, Meiji Jingu and Harajuku
The first is to start at the Shibuya crossing, the famously busy one, somewhat popularised by "Lost in translation", but pretty much the typical shot of Tokyo. During a busy time of the day it is quite mesmerising to see how swarms of people head into the street as the lights go green and somehow make it to the other side without bumping into anyone.
From there you walk north for 15-20 minutes to Yoyogi Park and inside the park you will find the Meiji Jingu, a very beautiful and peaceful Shinto shrine.
From there you can walk east to Harajuku, which is a neighbourhood well known as the home of many of the Japanese subcultures - google "Harajuku fashion" and you'll see what I mean.
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| Shibuya |
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| Shibuya |
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Yoyogi Park/Meiji Jingu
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| Harajuku |
Second walk - Akihabara, Ameyoko and Ueno Park
The second one is similar in nature. Start in Akihabara, which is where most of the really big electronics shops are (e.g. the multi-story Big Camera, where you will surely find anything you're after). Here you will also find lots of shops dedicated to anime (not my thing, but still quite interesting). Walk a bit down the side streets to get a feel for the quirkier and sometimes outright weird aspects of Japanese culture such as the "Maid cafes".
From there walk north, through Ameyoko shopping street, which is a unique shopping market, until you get to Ueno park. This park is the epicenter during cherry blossom (sakura) season, which unfortunately you will have just missed, but still is a very nice park, with several pagodas and temples as well as some of the most important museums.
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| Akihabara |
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| Akihabara |
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| Maid Cafe |
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| Maid Cafe |
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| Ameyoko |
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| Ameyoko |
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| Ueno |
Extra sight - Asakusa
Third walk - Tsukiji, Ginza and Imperial palace gardens
The third one is a bit of a longer walk. Start at the site of the old Tsukuji fish market. The market has now closed, but I suspect there are still very good sushi place nearby. Then walk north-west to Ginza, which is the sort of "Oxford street" in Tokyo. Not that into shopping myself, but the flagship stores of UniQlo and Muji are there so something to consider.
From Tsukiji to Ginza don't forget to pass by the Kabuki theatre (Kabukiza) - and maybe consider going to a play. Just as a side note, there are three types of traditional Japanese theatre: Bunraku (the one with the puppets), Noh (the one with the masks) and Kabuki, which is the one with all male actors, all from the families that have done Kabuki for centuries (you can't just do Kabuki, you have to be been born into a family that does it). A Kabuki play is about four hours. However, they now allow tourists to buy tickets for scenes of the play (book in advance). We did this last April and found it absolutely fascinating, even if we only saw 30 mins of the play.
Anyhow, coming back to the route, keep heading west and you'll get to
the imperial place. You can't visit it, but walking around the imperial
gardens is quite nice.
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| Tsukiji |
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| Tsukiji |
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| Kabukiza |
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| Kabukiza |
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| Ginza |
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| Imperial Palace |
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| Imperial Palace |
Other areas in Tokyo
Just one final thing on other areas in Tokyo.
Firstly, Shinjuku which is the sort of, how should one call it, the more “party” zone of Tokyo. It is definitely lively, where you will see a lot of Pachinko places, with specific areas such as Kabukicho, which feel as edgy as it gets in Tokyo. This is supposed to be where the Yakuza hang around, but it is surprisingly safe and chilled for the hangout of one of the most well-known organised crime organisations.
Another area for nightlife but of the more “sophisticated” type is Roppongi, which is also supposed to be one of the favourite hangouts for foreigners.
Yasukuni-jinja
As I told you, there is a somewhat "niche" place of interest for those who are obsessed with international politics and historical conflicts (🙋🏻). This is Yasukuni-jinja, which is not really on the tourist trail, but it is one of the most hotly-debated places in the whole of East-Asia.
Basically, this is a shrine dedicated to the worship of the souls (kami) of all Japanese who have died during wars since 1869, including Japanese civilians and soldiers and, more controversially, 14 class-A war criminals, including PM general Hideki Tojo, who was the main individual responsible for Japan's actions during WWII.
Now, something to bear in mind about the end of WWII in Asia vs. Europe was that, whereas in Germany there was an acknowledgement of what the country did and a certain admission of guilt, there wasn't really such a thing in Japan - again, honour is a big thing in Japanese culture so probably more difficult to swallow. Now, the effect of this is that there is still a lot of resentment from China and both Koreas against Japan.
Coming back to Yasukuni, one of the key debates when there is a new Japanese PM is whether he (inexorably a "he") will visit Yasukuni and whether he will do so in an official capacity. Previous visits by Junichiro Koizumi and Shinzo Abe created significant diplomatic spats with China and South Korea with allegations of Japan glorifying its military past. I remember once watching a news report of South Korean protestors in front of Japan's embassy in Seoul cutting off their fingers in protest - that is the level of emotion this creates.
Now, saner and more level-headed minds have suggested that the kamis of these 14 war criminals be removed, allowing all other war dead to be worshiped without much fuss. However, when these suggestions are voiced, the ultra-nationalists groups in Japan (which are quite strong) come out screaming that this is not honorable and it is abdication to China and the Koreas - so nothing happens.
Just for that history the place is worth a visit but, I have to say, it is actually a very nice temple (and gardens), notwithstanding the context, so maybe a place to consider. Below a couple of pictures and more on the controversy at BBC article.
Travel inside Japan - Shinkansen
Now, before talking a bit about Osaka, Kyoto and Nara there were a couple of things that I wanted to bring to your attention. The first one is on the Shinkansen 🚄. This is definitely the way to travel between Osaka and Tokyo or Kyoto and Tokyo if you so choose. It is super efficient, super fast and super comfortable. It’s also reasonably priced.
We paid ¥24,000 for the two of us from Osaka to Tokyo in April last year in the Nozomi, which is the one that makes fewer stops (there are also Hikari and Kodama, if I remember correctly, which stop more). This is about £127, which, if you think about it, given that it is a distance of 500km and that you cover in 2.5 hours is not too bad.
Top tip for the Shinkansen to/from Tokyo to Osaka or Kyoto is that you want to get a window seat that looks to the North/West (i.e. on the right from Tokyo to Osaka/Kyoto and left on the way back). On a clear day you might be able to see Mount Fuji 🗻!
Ideally you should buy tickets in advance to ensure a good seat and such, although once we bought the tickets on the day and it was fine….but wouldn’t test my luck.
And, for ASMR fans, here is a video departing Osaka for Tokyo on the Shinkansen
Kyoto
First time I went was December 2009 and, being winter and a time when tourism in Japan wasn’t that big, it was relatively quiet. Then went again in September 2015, tourism had boomed and the place was packed. I understand that it is now quite congested. Does that mean that best to avoid? Not a chance! Kyoto is an absolutely beautiful place, very spiritual, very special, a close image of what ancient Japan was.
Worth maybe just noting that Tokyo is very modern partly because it was heavily fire-bombed during the war, but also it has some pretty “liberal” planning rules which meant that things are easily torn down. On the other hand, there are a lot of parts in Kyoto that preserve that more traditional architecture (it was also spared a hit from an atomic bomb - see BBC article).
Anyhow, I digress. Kyoto is quite big - not Tokyo big, but big - so this means that you will need to rely on public transportation a bit. Last time I went you could get a day ticket for unlimited bus travel, with a route that went around all the tourist attractions. So if that still exists, highly recommended.
The absolute must-see places include (but are not limited to) Nijo Castle, Nazen-ji temple (which is also the start or finish of a very nice walk along the canal called “the philosopher’s walk”) and the absolutely awe-inspiring Kinkaku-ji - the Golden pavilion.
Now, there is a walk which is a must around Gion district and Higashiyama - requires a bit of going uphill. Start at the Yasaka shrine, walk along Ishibe-Koji lane and Ne-ne no michi (Ne-ne’s road), see the Yasaka Pagoda, also walk along Shannen-zaka and Ninenzaka, finally getting to the top at Kiyomizu-dera temple. The view from there is very nice, the temple is amazing and pay particular attention to the wooden structure that holds it on the slope of the mountain, which, I understand, doesn’t have any nails or screws. All wood assembled together.
If you want the ultimate Japanese experience, look for a traditional Japanese hotel (Ryokan) and, in the morning, have a very nice traditional Japanese breakfast (fish, miso soup, poached egg, tofu…). Only catch with a ryokan is that they are likely to be very expensive and, if you think that you can save money by staying in a tiny one, think again because they are properly tiny (I know, been there and I didn’t actually fit in the place. I mean, I fit, but constantly hit myself with everything).
Now, pictures? Yes, I have pictures. See a small selection below, but definitely need to see it in person
Nara
A possible day trip from Kyoto is Nara. Much smaller place, completely walkable in a day and quite beautiful. Probably best known for being the place where there are deer around the temples (and pretty much everywhere). When we went (2015) it was a bit quieter than Kyoto, but not quite sure if that endures. The place is so small that it is really not worth singling out places to see as the whole thing can be seen in a day - and is worth seeing whole as it is really special. Some pictures below.
Osaka
First time ever for me was in April last year. It feels a bit edgier,
grittier, noisier, less organised than Tokyo, but then Tokyo is absurdly
clean and organised.
In any case, while very big, Osaka is smaller so, possibly more walkable. Main area is the Namba area downtown, where there are lots of shops and restaurants. In particular the canal area around Dotonbori is very interesting, with the restaurants with the over-the-top motifs. Within Namba there is a particularly interesting temple: Namba Yasaka shrine, with the face of a dragon. From there we just walked a bit randomly, stumbling into the odd temple and shrine.
Beyond Namba, the other key place to visit is Osaka castle. TBH we didn’t go into the castle itself, but we had been to a couple such castles in the past (in Nagoya and Matsumoto) so we were familiar already. This one is also a reconstruction so maybe to consider if you want to go in. Osaka castle is also very relevant if you watched Shogun (and if you haven’t please drop everything and start watching it now!!!).
You may also want to visit Umeda Sky Building and go all the way to the top for a panoramic view. Now, may want to consider going to Himeiji castle, which is a couple of hours on the (normal) train. We didn’t visit because it was that or Universal Studios and we went with the childish option, but it is generally cited as one of the main things to see around Osaka - and a Unesco World Heritage site. A few pictures below:
Universal studios
An important thing if visiting Universal Studios is the entry into Super Nintendo World. As I said, the Universal ticket only gets you inside the park, but for Super Nintendo World you’ll need a timed ticket, which you can apply for free with the app when you get to the park (see https://en.m.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Universal_Studios_Japan). Thing is that this is a risk because you might get an odd time or maybe even not qualify.
So, while expensive (more than the entry ticket to Universal studios) you’ll want to buy the time entry package from some of the online travel agents in advance (we bought from Klook). I think we bought a ticket that gave us a guaranteed timed-entry to Super Nintendo World and then I think a sort of fast pass to Harry Potter, Demonslayer and flying dinosaur.
Again, it is expensive but if you’re crossing continents to go there, best to guarantee entry and then you also get faster entry to these other things, so that will save you lots of time queuing. And bear in mind that this is a separate ticket to the one for Universal Studios!
General tips for Japan
Now, there are a few general points on Japan that are worth bearing in mind.
Language
First time I went to Japan I was fully reliant on Haru as absolutely nobody spoke any English (not even the lady at the Japan Airlines counter at Narita airport). People are incredibly helpful and nice - and sometimes may even understand what you are saying- but they wouldn’t speak a word (losing face is a big deal in Japanese culture, so they will avoid anything that could embarrass them).
Now, this has improved massively - massively from a very low base, which means that it is still the case that very few people will speak any English. With that in mind learn a few basic words and have your Google translate at hand (and a phone with data - more on this later).
The train stations and announcements on trains are made in English, but sometimes even restaurants will have menus solely in Japanese.
Customs
Japanese people are incredibly nice and helpful. Don’t be surprised by random acts of courtesy or kindness and customer service everywhere is the sort of thing that you would expect at the hangouts of the rich and famous - so definitely reciprocate on the courtesy.
There are certain things to avoid, though. Don’t shout or raise your voice if (by some miracle) you get into an argument. Don’t talk on the phone while on the train. Under no circumstances “stab” food with the chopsticks (mega faux pas). Don’t blow your nose while eating.
A little bow (more of a nod) when saying thank you - and say “arigato gozaimas”, not just “arigato”. If you want to appear like a native, hand and receive things from other people with both hands and a little nod.
When paying at the cashier at any place there will be a small tray next to the cashier. You are meant to put the money there - card also if not using contactless.
Safety
Not much to say here. Place is absurdly safe. If you dropped your wallet you could come by the next day and it would probably still be there.
Cash
Definitely widespread use of credit/debit cards and growing, but you still need to pay some things with cash. I think train tickets and such are still with cash, so take some. We took ¥30,000 last time around, and had like ¥5,000 left in the end. I also recommend buying currency at AceFX that has a shop in London Bridge station. You can order online and then collect the following day and they have the best rates. (ace-fx.com)
Transportation
The train system in Japan is amazing. Super efficient and super clean. I know there are the famous pictures of people being shoved into the carriages but I’ve personally never seen that and if you avoid rush hour (which is very early anyway and, maybe, around 6PM) it should be fine.
In Tokyo there is the underground but the overground (JR Lines, as well as those of some independent operators) is also quite extensive. Sometimes you’ll probably be using the overground more than the underground, even to go between places in central Tokyo and for sure at some stage you’ll be taking the Yamanote line, a properly circular line around Tokyo, which on its own carries more passengers every day than the whole of the London underground (see Londonist).
If arriving at Tokyo you should try to get a Pasmo or Suica card (but, if first stop is Osaka then it will be an Icoca card - they work nationally), which are similar to Oyster cards. This will make life much easier, otherwise you’ll be buying a ticket every time you want to take the train.
The train is also highly recommended for the trip to and from the airport - not sure if you’re arriving at Narita, which is farther away, or Haneda, which is more in the city proper.
You can also take buses (which can be paid for with the Suica/Pasmo/Icoca card). I’ve only taken a taxi once as my recollection is that it was expensive but you see quite a lot of them around so definitely an option.
Telecommunications/Mobile
I’m assuming that your phone supports eSIMs, in which case I would suggest that you get one before you travel. We used https://www.mobal.com/japan-esims/ last year and it worked quite well. You can buy it online before you travel and then you can activate it once you get there. I activated mine while queuing at immigration so had data only a few minutes after arriving at the airport. You may need to log into the airport’s WiFi, though. I also recommend having a printout of the instructions to activate it.
Konbini
One thing you will see at pretty much every corner in Japan are Kombinis - convenience stores. There are many brands, but the most common are 7-eleven, Lawson or Family Mart. Here you can find pretty much anything you need and are so ubiquitous that you don’t have to walk too far to find one.
Contrary to what one would expect, the food (including hot food) in these is surprisingly good. I mean, not Michelin-starred, but fairly decent and perfect if you need to grab a quick bite. I even remember once eating Karaage chicken (fried chicken, but different recipe to here) at a Family Mart and thinking that it was genuinely nice.
I am now going to do you a great disservice by mentioning this but, personally, I will always stop at a kombini after lunch to get me a Meiji chocolate bar (used to be ¥100 first time around, now, I think, ¥125). I would say that is my Japanese ritual….🙇
Cleanliness
As a fellow germaphobe I am pleased to confirm that Japan is probably the cleanest place you will ever visit. Cleanliness is a national obsession and you’ll be hard-pressed to find any signs of dirt. I even remember when we rented a car that at the petrol station you would always be handed a wet cloth so that you could clean the dashboard of the car while it was being refuelled.
And, of course, you will encounter one of the greatest innovations to come out of Japan: the Japanese toilet. Daunting when first encountered given all the different buttons (maybe worth having a look at a youtube video with instructions beforehand), it will then seem like the most hilarious thing ever but, eventually, you’ll be wondering how you lived all this time without one and how you can get one installed at your place (I’m still doing the research and I think I may have cracked it so it is a possible DIY project this year at the Kita-Soto household).
Onsen/ofuro
Japanese looooove their hot springs and warm baths, especially in the evening before going to bed, and there is a reasonable chance that your hotel will have an Onsen.
However, be warned that rules are very strict and definitely not suited for the prudish (guilty as charged). If using a public one such as in the hotel, they will have separate sections for men and women. In theory tattoos are not allowed, but last time I was there I think this was being relaxed a bit because of the amount of western tourists (traditionally, having tattoo was a sign that you belonged to the Yakuza).
And then, the tricky part….you are meant to go in completely naked. If you are thinking that you can maybe save your modesty by just dashing from the changing room straight into the water, think again. When you go in you will see that there is a long line of low stools with telephone showers. You are meant to sit there and wash thoroughly before going in.
Haru told me about these things, that I shouldn’t worry because nobody is looking (or, rather, that everyone's focusing on their own shame), etc. etc. but I always said that there was no chance in hell that I would ever do this sort of thing. But then, in 2018, we were at this ryokan in the middle of nowhere with natural hot springs, a bit tired from driving the whole day and not too many guests and I said “what the hell!” and been hooked ever since. It is definitely a very relaxing way to end a busy day of sightseeing.
However, if all this is too much for you, you will surely have an ofuro (small bathtub) in your room, so you can do that instead.
Food
OK, so finally will get to my favourite topic but not super thoroughly for two reasons: The first one is that there is quite a lot of Japanese food that has made it to the West, so possibly less of a surprise. The second is that I have yet to eat anything in Japan that I didn’t like. The food is absolutely amazing, from the cheap to the fancy and everything in between.
Maybe the first thing I will say is that sushi (as in sushi, sashimi or nigiri) is not the “Tesco meal deal” that you might be imagining, i.e. ubiquitous. Sushi is a relatively special food and, therefore, something that you would eat during a special-ish occasion. The other thing is that sushi should (in theory) only be made up of algae (nori), rice and fish/shellfish, i.e. things like avocado cheese, etc. are western additions and unlikely to be found there.
Personal recommendation is to go to a kaiten sushi place (i.e. one with the conveyor belt or similar) and I would recommend to be adventurous. Don’t ask what it is, just try it. There is really nothing super strange in Japanese food so it’s not like you’re taking a huge risk. This has always been my approach and never ate anything that wasn’t delicious.
Now, while Japanese food can be sophisticated, I’ve found that it is the cheap eats that are the most satisfying. What you will find everywhere will be ramen and Japanese curry places. You really can’t go wrong with these but maybe just check that there are more locals than Westerners inside just to confirm that it isn’t a tourist trap.
Sometimes for these places you will see that there is a machine next to the entrance, with several large buttons, each with a picture of the dish. You are meant to place your order in these machines by making your selection, putting in the money and then you’ll get a piece of paper that you have to hand to the person at the counter who will then serve you.
Ramen is only one type of noodle dish. There is also Udon (thicker noodles, also in a broth), yakisoba (fried noodles on their own) and soba (typically cold noodles, popular during the summer) to name a few.
Then you also have lots of rice-based dishes such as curry-rice (Kare Raisu, possibly accompanied by tonkatsu - pork cutlet) as mentioned above, donburi (a base of rice with some cooked food on top - you will see lots of dishes that have “don” at the end, e.g. tendon is rice bowl with tempura, or katsudon is pork cutlet with rice), hayashi raisu (which is rice and this stew of meat in this tomato sauce) or onigiris (small “triangles” of rice with a filling and covered in nori - you can get these at any Kombini and ideal if you’re hungry and need something quick and small to eat). More details at Japan Guide.
Another option for lunch when out and about is to go to a Teishoku, which is a restaurant where they serve a set menu at a more than reasonable price.
If winding down at the end of the day, do as the salarymen (office workers) do and head to an izakaya to eat lots of yakitoris (skewers of different grilled chicken pieces) and have some beers.
There is lots more, but there are three specific things that I would definitely recommend: first, tempura, which I’m sure you’ve had in the UK but it is a must (and absolutely one of my favourite things in the world). Second, okonomiyaki, which is a pancake made out of cabbage and other ingredients and that will normally be prepared in front of you (typical dish of Osaka and will provide a specific recommendation below). Third, karaage chicken, which is fried chicken, but, I think, the batter has some soy sauce so it has a very special flavour.
Of course, if you want something more sophisticated, you can do teppanyaki where you will still around a griddle and the cook will make the food for you (maybe with some added acrobatics) - and if you want to do the grilling yourself, then try a yakiniku place.
Below are some of the specific restaurant recommendations in Tokyo and Osaka that Haru researched for our last trip, and the ones with a * are the ones we actually went to (we ended up going a bit random in Tokyo anyway) but, again, you really can’t go wrong in Japan.
Places to eat in Tokyo
- Butagumi (Nishi Azabu)- Tonkatsu 🐖
- Wako (Shinjuku) - Tonkatsu 🐖
- Sakura (Shibuya) Tonkatsu 🐖
- Maisen (Omotesando) - Tonkatsu 🐖
- *Udon Maruka - Udon + tempura 🍤
- Kirimugiya Jinroku - Udon y tempura 🍤 (egg tempura) (Shinjuku)
- Fujisoba - (multiple locations) soba and cheap Katsudon
- Oreryu Shio (multiple locations) - Good ramen 🍜
- Menya Hyottoko (Yurakucho) - Good ramen 🍜
- Tokyo Ramen Street (Tokyo station) 🍜
- Chuka soba ginza Hachigou - Michelin star ramen (£10 - but very long line) 🍜
- Nakiryu - Michelin star tantanmen 🍜
- *Ootoya - Everyday homemade Japanese teishouku chain
- Tsujihan (Nihonbashi, Roppongi, Kagurazaka) - Sashimi & uni bowls / Ochazuke 🍣
- Sushi Panchi (Moto Azabu) 🍣 £££
- Kura Sushi 🍣- Kaiten sushi chain
- Kanda Tamagoken (multiple locations, Koenji, Akihabara, etc): Omurice + curry 🍛
- Jojoen Yakiniku (Shinjuku)
- Shiro-Hige ‘s Totoro cream puffs (Shimokitazawa - Setagaya Daita)
- Peko-chan yaki - Fujiya (Iidabashi Kajurazaka shop)
Places to eat in Osaka
- Rikurô Ojiisan no mise - cheesecake
- *Tsuruhashi Fugetsu - Okonomiyaki chain
- Kushikatsu Daruma
- Gram - souffle pancakes
- Niryohan Tsuruhashi honten - Ramen 🍜 sets
- Ichiran ramen 🍜 (various locations) - Tonkotsu ramen is specialty
- *Kamukura ramen 🍜 in Umeda
- Hoshino coffee - has food too
- Gyukatsu Motomura- beef katsu teishoku con piedra caliente para terminar de cocinar
- *Tempura Makino - Tempura 🍤 teishoku (Namba)
- Matsumura Yakiniku
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